Edinburgh is one of those cities that genuinely has no equivalent anywhere in Europe. The things to do in Edinburgh span a medieval castle, a mile-long royal processional route, a dormant volcano you can hike in twenty minutes from the city center, world-class whisky bars, and more Harry Potter connections than you will find anywhere outside of a film set. We first visited in 2019 and fell hard for it. We came back in 2023 and lived and worked here for a stretch as digital nomads — and loved it just as much the second time. Edinburgh is a city that reveals itself slowly and rewards every return visit.
This complete guide covers everything you need — when to go, where to stay, the best restaurants and bars, the top things to do in Edinburgh, and the Harry Potter connections that make this city unlike anywhere else.
BEST TIME TO VISIT EDINBURGH
March through October is the best window, with summer (June through August) being peak season. The Edinburgh Festival Fringe in August is one of the greatest events in the world — the city triples in size, every surface becomes a stage, and the energy is unlike anything we have experienced anywhere. Book accommodation months in advance if you are coming for the Fringe.
Hogmanay — the Scottish New Year celebration on December 31 — is another exceptional time to visit. The street party along Princes Street is enormous and deeply traditional. Winter otherwise is cold and grey but Edinburgh is still completely functional and far less crowded. Shoulder season in April, May, September, and October gives you the best combination of manageable crowds and decent weather.
HOW TO GET TO EDINBURGH
Edinburgh Airport has direct connections from most major UK cities and many European hubs. From London, the train from King’s Cross to Edinburgh Waverley takes about 4.5 hours on LNER — a genuinely enjoyable journey through the English and Scottish countryside. Budget airlines including Ryanair and easyJet fly the London-Edinburgh route cheaply if you book ahead.
Pro Tip: Grab an eSIM before you travel so you have data the moment you land. Saily is our go-to — use code THEJETLAGJOURNEY25 for 25% off. Airalo is a great alternative (code JLJ10 for 10% off).
CURRENCY AND TIPPING IN EDINBURGH
Edinburgh uses the British Pound (GBP). Card and contactless payments are accepted almost everywhere. Tipping follows UK norms — 10 to 12.5 percent at sit-down restaurants, rounding up at bars, never obligatory.
WHERE TO STAY IN EDINBURGH
The Old Town and New Town are the two best areas for visitors. The Old Town — around the Royal Mile and Grassmarket — puts you in the heart of the medieval city within walking distance of the castle and most of the main sights. The New Town, just across Princes Street Gardens, is quieter at night and home to excellent Georgian architecture and independent restaurants.
Luxury: The Balmoral at the east end of Princes Street — one of the great railway hotels of Britain with views across to the castle.
Mid-range: Look for hotels in the Grassmarket or on the Royal Mile for the best Old Town location at a manageable price.
Budget: Edinburgh has excellent hostels. Code Pod on Rose Street and Smart City Hostel on Blackfriars Street are well-run options close to everything.
WHERE TO EAT IN EDINBURGH
Edinburgh’s food scene has improved enormously over the past decade. Scottish cuisine done well — haggis, smoked salmon, cullen skink, and venison — is excellent, and the city has a strong independent restaurant scene. These are the spots worth your time.
The Witchery by the Castle — dramatic Gothic dining right at the gates of Edinburgh Castle. One of the most atmospheric restaurants in Scotland. Worth it for a special dinner.
Ondine — the best seafood restaurant in Edinburgh, with a sustainable sourcing ethos and a menu that changes with what is landed that day. On George IV Bridge, a short walk from the Royal Mile.
Pickles — a wine bar with excellent cheese boards and a cozy, relaxed atmosphere. Perfect for a long afternoon working through a tasting.
Grassmarket area — a cluster of good value restaurants and cafes at the foot of the castle ranging from Scottish comfort food to international options. A reliable area to wander and find something that suits.
WHERE TO DRINK IN EDINBURGH
Edinburgh’s pub and bar scene is one of the best in the UK — ancient whisky bars, atmospheric old pubs, and some brilliant modern additions. These are the places we come back to every visit.
The Caley Picture House — J.D. Wetherspoon — we know what you are thinking. But hear us out. The Caley Picture House is a former cinema and the scale of the space, the original period features, and the ceiling height make it genuinely worth a visit regardless of the chain attached to it. It is the most spectacular Wetherspoons we have ever been in — and we have been in a lot of them across the UK. Cheap pints, a stunning building, and no pretension. Do not skip it.
Library Bar — on the University of Edinburgh campus and one of our favourite bars in the city. Dark wood, shelves of books, great beers and whiskies, and a genuinely mixed crowd of students and locals. Cheap pints and the kind of atmosphere where you end up staying far longer than you planned.
Whistlebinkies — a live music bar on the South Bridge that runs music every night of the week. The sound is loud, the crowd is lively, and the energy is always good. One of the best spots in Edinburgh for a spontaneous night out. We have never had a bad time here.
The Scotch Whisky Experience — not just a bar but a guided tasting experience right next to the castle. If you want to understand Scottish whisky properly this is the place to start. Book ahead for the full tour.
Edinburgh Gin Distillery — tours of the distillery with tastings in a beautiful space. Book in advance.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN EDINBURGH
These are the things to do in Edinburgh that belong on every visit — from the medieval to the literary to the genuinely unexpected.
Edinburgh Castle — the volcanic rock fortress that has dominated the city’s skyline for over a thousand years. The Crown Jewels of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny, and the National War Museum are all here. The views from the esplanade are extraordinary. Buy tickets in advance — it is Edinburgh’s most visited attraction and queues build fast.
The Royal Mile — the ancient spine of the Old Town running from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Kings and queens have walked this processional route for over 500 years. The closes — narrow medieval alleyways branching off both sides — are some of the most atmospheric streets in Europe. Explore as many as you can find.
Arthur’s Seat — the dormant volcano rising above the city is one of Edinburgh’s greatest gifts. The hike to the summit takes 45 minutes to an hour from Holyrood Park and what makes it so special is the journey itself — you leave the medieval Old Town, pass through the edge of the city, and within fifteen minutes you are in something that feels entirely like the Scottish Highlands. The transition from castle to city to highlands in a single walk is something we have not experienced anywhere else. Standing at the top with the whole city spread below you is genuinely one of the best things to do in Edinburgh. Do not miss it.
The Harry Potter Trail — Edinburgh has more Harry Potter connections than almost anywhere outside a film studio. J.K. Rowling wrote significant portions of the early books while living in Edinburgh, including at The Elephant House cafe overlooking Greyfriars Kirkyard. In the graveyard itself you can find the real gravestones of Thomas Riddell (Tom Riddle) and William McGonagall (Professor McGonagall), along with several other names that inspired characters throughout the series. The graveyard is free to visit and one of the most quietly extraordinary things to do in Edinburgh for any Harry Potter fan. The Elephant House cafe is on George IV Bridge — look up at the castle from the back window and you can see exactly what Rowling was looking at while writing.
Palace of Holyroodhouse — the official Scottish residence of the monarch at the bottom of the Royal Mile. A working royal palace with a fascinating history. Tours available when the Royal Family is not in residence.
St Giles’ Cathedral — the High Kirk of Edinburgh on the Royal Mile is one of the most beautiful Gothic interiors in Scotland and free to enter. The Thistle Chapel inside is extraordinarily ornate.
The Scottish National Museum — free entry to one of the best national museums in the UK. Scottish history, art, science, and culture across six floors of a stunning Victorian building. Allow at least two to three hours.
BEST DAY TRIPS FROM EDINBURGH
Loch Ness and the Highlands — a long day trip by car or organised tour. Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, and the dramatic Highland scenery are all accessible in a day though an overnight stay lets you do it properly.
Stirling Castle — 45 minutes by train and one of the most important castles in Scottish history. The childhood home of Mary Queen of Scots.
St Andrews — an hour by bus or car, home to Scotland’s oldest university, the birthplace of golf, and a beautiful seaside town worth a full day.
GETTING AROUND EDINBURGH
Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town are entirely walkable — almost everything on this list is within 20 minutes on foot of everything else. For longer distances, the tram runs from the airport through the New Town to Leith. Buses cover the rest of the city. Bolt works well in Edinburgh for rideshare.
ETIAS — WHAT AMERICAN TRAVELERS NEED TO KNOW
ETIAS applies to EU Schengen Area countries and does not cover the UK. However, the UK now requires an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) for visa-free visitors including Americans — apply online before your trip for £10. For trips combining Edinburgh with mainland Europe, read our complete ETIAS guide for the European requirements.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT THINGS TO DO IN EDINBURGH
How many days do you need in Edinburgh?
Three to four days is ideal for a first visit — enough time for the castle, Arthur’s Seat, the Harry Potter trail, the whisky experiences, and enough evenings in the pubs to actually feel the city. Two days is doable but rushed. During the Fringe Festival, plan for at least a week.
What are the Harry Potter connections in Edinburgh?
J.K. Rowling wrote parts of the early Harry Potter books in Edinburgh, most famously at The Elephant House cafe overlooking Greyfriars Kirkyard. In the graveyard you can find the graves of Thomas Riddell (Tom Riddle) and William McGonagall (Professor McGonagall), along with several other character name inspirations. Free to visit and one of the most unique things to do in Edinburgh.
Is Arthur’s Seat worth climbing?
Absolutely — it is one of the best things to do in Edinburgh and completely free. The hike takes 45 minutes to an hour and the transition from medieval city to Highland moorland in fifteen minutes of walking is genuinely unlike anything else. Wear decent shoes and go on a clear day.
When is the Edinburgh Festival Fringe?
The Fringe runs for three weeks every August, typically starting in the first week of the month. It is the largest arts festival in the world. Book accommodation as early as possible — the city fills up completely and prices spike significantly.
Is Edinburgh worth visiting in winter?
Yes — Hogmanay on December 31 is one of the best New Year celebrations in the world and the city has a wonderful atmosphere in the lead-up to Christmas. Crowds are far smaller and accommodation is much cheaper than summer.
What is the best bar in Edinburgh?
Library Bar on the University of Edinburgh campus for a cheap pint in a great atmosphere, Whistlebinkies for live music any night of the week, and The Caley Picture House Wetherspoons for the most spectacular pub interior in the city. All three are worth your time.
MORE FROM THE JET LAG JOURNEY
Combining Edinburgh with the rest of the UK? Read our London city guide for everything you need in the capital. Planning a bigger European trip? Our guide to how to plan a trip to Europe covers all the logistics. For tips on keeping costs down, read our 40 ways to travel cheaper. And if you are working remotely while travelling, our best European cities for digital nomads guide includes Edinburgh.
